The California resort of Harbin Hot Springs, located about two hours North of San Francisco, offers clothing-optional therapeutic soaking in manicured mineral pools ranging in temperature from 60 to 112 degrees Fahrenheit.
The laid-back sanctuary attracts people of all ages from all over the world who come to soak in the relaxing waters, get a massage, take a yoga class, attend seminars, go hiking and sleep beneath the stars.
Arriving At Harbin Hot Springs
On the day we arrived, a middle-aged, white-haired Frenchman greeted us at the entrance. He warned us about the dangers of Harbin first, explaining that in many ways it's like the infamous 'Hotel California' of Eagles' folklore. "You can check in," he said, leaning onto a wooden counter with a serious look in his eyes, "but be forewarned, if you're like me, you might end up never wanting to leave."
It turns out that the Frenchman arrived at Harbin in the early 1980s for a short vacation and never went home. And he is not alone. Over 160 residents live at Harbin, volunteering their services for various lengths of time to enjoy the low-stress, natural environment.
With patient nonchalance, the Frenchman continued to explain the campground procedures, the available activities and the rules to respect. As the welcome speech rambled on and on, the sign on the door reading 'If you're in a hurry, you're in the wrong place' gained relevance. It was a great reminder to leave the nervous pace of city living behind, turn off the laptop, bury the cell phone, and step into a peaceful world of tranquility and meditation.
"No smoking is allowed on the premises, no illegal drugs and no alcoholic beverages," he continued, the hint of a French accent barely audible. "If it needs to be lit, it doesn't belong ‘ere."
By the time we found a spot to pitch our tent - beside a gurgling stream with shade from the canopy of tall, leafy trees - the sun was setting beyond the horizon. The hiking trail from our campsite to the center of Harbin took about fifteen minutes to walk in the dark, and we were thankful for flashlights. We passed a large wooden deck first where a series of sleeping bags, air mattresses and roll-away mats lay largely empty.
What You Can Expect To Find At Harbin Hot Springs
The café, which serves smoothies and salads overlooking the largest pool, was already closed for the day, and although we had come expecting weekend crowds, not even a small peep was coming from the nude soakers. They walked quietly between the top, icy-cold pool to the fiery hot pool below in a therapeutic procession without a sound.
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Part of what makes Harbin special, aside from the sometimes painstakingly slow pace of procedures and its quiet crowds, is the lack of fancy amenities.
The accommodation options range from the sleeping deck to igloo-like private domes perched on a distant hillside, but no traces of upscale snobbery or fine amenities exist. The showers and locker room area are simple and practical. Most of the buildings are constructed of plain wood without superfluous decoration and wild colors. The magnificence of the place lies largely in the preservation of its pristine surroundings.
Slipping into the temperate water, where the silence is broken only by random tree droppings, feels like a heavy weight miraculously lifting from the body. But the best surprise in store for us was an aquatic massage to rival all others.
What Is Watsu?
Developed in the 1980s at Harbin Hot Springs by Howard Dull, Watsu is an aquatic dance that combines the eastern healing benefits and principles of Shiatsu with massage therapy. The practitioner supports your neck and lower back, keeping your ears just below the surface of the water.
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The only audible sounds are the beating of your heart and your breath as you slowly inhale and exhale. The Watsu massage takes you through a series of slow rocking movements in which your weightless body begins to feel like a spiritual entity rather than a physical being.
Some people claim that Watsu is a return to the womb, and after having experienced it, I understand why. It is as if your legs, arms and torso are slowly liquefying, melting into the deliciously warm mineral waters around you.
Beyond the deep state of relaxation and meditation, some of the other noted benefits include improved circulation, digestion, sleep patterns, joint mobility, strength, and breathing patterns as well as decreased stress, anxiety, pain, and muscle tightness.
By the end of our Watsu massages, the words of the wise Frenchman echoed in our minds, and we understood how easy it would be to check into Harbin and simply never leave.
For more information about Harbin Hot Springs, please go to http://www.harbin.org/