Painting Thankas at Norbulingka |
The morning's work begins with praying to the Gods and again as the sun goes down and the paintbrushes are cleaned there are prayers again. Prayers to bless the working day, to keep a clear mind and a steady hand. Painting thangkas (Tibetan Buddhist paintings) is incredibly focused work, it is not freeform, it is traditional and each aspect of the painting must be depicted perfectly.
The thangkas themselves carry blessings of wealth, health and happiness depending on the deities and stories depicted, but if the mudra (hand position) of the Buddha is not correct, if there is a strange look in the eye of the dragon, the painting becomes inauspicious, especially for the painter.
Norbulingka is nestled in the Himalayas and is at the heart of preserving Tibetan culture. About twelve kilometers south of McLeod Ganj, the home of the exiled Holiness, the Dalai Lama, Norbulingka has been set up to keep traditions alive.
Through teaching thangka painting, wood painting and appliqué, this beautiful centre focuses on the traditional techniques to keep Tibetan art alive outside of Tibet.
There are more than 300 people working, studying and living at Norbulingka. Artists, craftsmen, and scholars live here with their apprentices, families and students. Coming from all backgrounds and all areas of Tibet, some were born in India, but most have arrived from Tibet in the last few years.
"We encourage self-reliance and a positive work ethic," says Norbulingka's director Kalsang Yeshi. "These principles, based on Buddhist values, were prevalent in old Tibet, although they have been overwhelmed by the upheavals that have taken place over the last few decades."
Since the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1959 when His Holiness the Dalai Lama fled and took up residence in the northern hills of India, thousands of Tibetans have followed. In fact there are around 85,000 Tibetans living in settlements in India.
It is necessary to live outside of Tibet in order to preserve the Tibetan culture and faith which is still under persecution from the Chinese Government. The hills around Dharamsala is where the heartbeat of Tibetan Buddhism is strongest.
Inside the thangka workshop, there are 26 students following two masters. Each artist undertakes six years of training. The master is incredibly young, I expected to see a wizened man in glasses after years of such intricate work, but as his friend says, being a master is in the genes or maybe the skill comes from a former incarnation, artistic genius comes from the heart, not necessarily years of study.
Also you will not find a signature on these pieces. "Every act of creation is divine. The artist is simply the instrument," the master tells us through our guide. Also, attaching your name to a piece of work is like stamping it with the ego, as Buddhists the aim is to destroy the ego. The artwork serves as a lesson in itself, just like the amazing sand mandalas that are made by monks and then destroyed to illustrate impermanence.
There are also stunning thangkas done in silk appliqué, but while the painted ones are done by just one artist, the appliqué thangkas are made by an intricate production line.
Thangkas are lessons. They are a guide for meditation or comtemplation with stories from Tibetan Buddhism depicted on the canvas. The iconography and significance of animals included, position of the Buddha or the story that unfolds give you a lesson to follow in your life.
So your lesson might be of Buddha's enlightenment, or healing through the Medicine Buddha which helps us to heal the inner sickness of attachment, hatred, and ignorance. It is believed that meditating on the Medicine Buddha can help decrease physical and mental illness and suffering.
Tara is another popular deity depicted on thangkas, she is the goddess of universal compassion and represents virtuous and enlightened action. Her compassion and love is so strong that it is believed she is like a mother to us all.
When a family member dies, the Rinpoche (literally meaning ‘living Buddha' but your master or teacher) dictates what kind of deity will give your loved one safe passage, and this thangka is then hung in the home.
The painted thangkas take between nine and eleven months to complete. Each piece is highly detailed, maybe it depicts a thousand Buddhas seated upon clouds or lotus flowers. We watch the master working on a piece that must be in its ninth month, it is near completion and has to be ready by July Sixth, as it is a gift for the Dalai Lama's birthday.
As well as the thangka workshop, there are amazing wooden jewellery boxes made at Norbulingka. Again highly stylized, the boxes have intricate designs created by a steady hand and a syringe filled with glue and distemper. The boxes are highly coloured and have images of dragons or tigers for example.
There are fifteen wood painters currently at the centre. All the painting students do the first three years of their training with the thangka masters and then specialize in either thangka or wood painting. There are ten applicants for every one student who is accepted at the centre. It is the height of excellence in the Tibetan art world.
At the centre, students also study Buddhist philosophy, Tibetan poetry, history, literature and medicine and these are often embodied in the artwork that is produced. Students also learn English, world history and environmental studies.
As the director Kalsang Yeshi says, "The aim of the Academy is to provide capable young Tibetans with the opportunity to develop a sound knowledge of their cultural heritage and the ability to place it in a global context through a greater understanding of the rest of the world."
Prayer flags flutter and there are little shrines dotted around the grounds, which has the vibe of a Japanese garden with waterpools and brightly coloured koi carp. And as you wander around the workshops or the gardens, you hear the artists singing… some of the songs are Tibetan folk tunes, but maybe there's some pop songs thrown in too.
It really does not feel as if you are in India. You can turn the golden prayer wheels for thousands of blessings and of course buy some of the beautiful pieces being made on site. Much of the work is exported around the globe and many thangka commissions adorn the walls of monasteries around the world.
At the heart of Norburlingka is the Seat of Happiness monastery. Dominated by a beautiful golden Buddha flanked by intricate murals, it is the perfect place to sit and meditate on beauty. Om Mani Padme Hum
For more information about Norbulingka, visit the official website at http://www.norbulingka.org/index.htm